Thank you for a great article, by the way. But within that category, youll find all-purpose mud, topping mud, and lightweight, all-purpose mud.. When smoothing joint compound already on the wall, keep the knife at around a 45 degree angle to the wall. That being said, excessive sanding of the paper on the wallboard will scuff it, and that WILL be visible. There are three types of joints to have tape and joint compound applied over them: flat, butt, and corner joints. The savings in time and effort are enormous if you don't have to correct and fix the previous days work! Speed Set or Quick Set are trade names for this type of joint compound. So outlets got added over the years with unsightly surface wiring run in conduit or trunking.

Thanks! Use pre-creased paper tape for inside corners and preformed tape for outside corners. Use light stroking movements to bed the tape without dislodging it from the corner. Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on May 27, 2014: In my experience it is very difficult to get as smooth a surface with a damp sponge, plus the sponge needs constant cleaning. Eugene Brennan from Ireland on February 17, 2018: The house I live in was built in the thirties and was then only wired for lighting, probably because appliances were few and far between. Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on September 29, 2011: Thank you. Primed with an understanding ofmudding materials, its time to familiarize yourself with the process as outlined here. The flat joint will need one pass with the knife to apply the joint compound followed by one or two more to smooth the compound, remove air pockets, clean up the edges, etc.

Normally at this time the nails or screws are covered. Thanks for the comment, and I'm glad the hub was of some value to you. It is worth doing it right the first time. Don't make that mistake. (A tapered edge meeting a cut edge is unacceptable as it is not possible to finish it correctly). This layer of joint compound should be pressed firmly onto the tape, but not so hard as to leave the tape exposed. Is there any reason why I can't just use two coats of mud, the first to cover the tape and then a finishing coat? Applied joint compound that has squeezed out from under the tape is scraped off using the same knife and can be reused unless it has picked up trash from the wall. Apply a second coat of mud to the screw indentations, beveled joints, and inside and outside cornersinthe same orderas the first coatonly this time, use only mud. I've looked at a lot of websites and video clips that show you how to tape and mud sheet-rock. The more vertical it is, the fewer air pockets will be produced and the smoother the surface, but also the more gouges you will produce with very small movements and changes in the knife. Butt joints are those that have cut edges of drywall meeting each other. Any imperfection at all will show up in the final, skim, coat; it is not uncommon to lightly sand the block coat after it is dried to make a superior job. I've been looking at some YouTube videos and some plasterers us a float and hawk to apply second and third coats rather than a wide knife. This time, each type of joint will get a full knife width on each side with a final pass again in the center to remove the inevitable ridge. Probably reasonably safe for the wireless unless you touched the earth at the back, but definitely not safe for ironing in the days before GFCIs.

Use the 10-inch knife for all screw indentations, seams, and corners. You will be left with a joint around 10 inches wide. Sandpaper makes a much bigger mess with dust everywhere, but wet sponging is more difficult to get a good job with. By Glenda Taylor and Bob Vila | Updated Oct 19, 2020 11:42 AM. Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on October 16, 2019: If there are large gaps between pieces of drywall (1/4" or larger) they should be filled. Dan is a licensed electrician and has been a homeowner for 40 years. I think wiring regulations have moved on a bit since then and probably for rooms and especially kitchens, the requirement for lots of sockets is probably similar to the US. Not sure what you mean, but all joints do need the tape for a little extra strength. Use a drywall pole sander or, if its important to keep airborne dust at a minimum, rent a power drywall sander from your local construction rental store. Block coat has been applied thin enough the tape can be discerned in places. Thank you for the compliment. Wilderness, I got the chills reading this article. And lastly, the most common mistake of a new finisher is to have a dirty knife. The objective is to fill the holes in the mesh tape as much as possible while still covering the tape completely. The question wasn't whether to sponge *instead* of sanding. Cut, fold, and fit a strip of pre-creased paper tape in the corner over the wet mud. The straight edge shows the taper on the finished edge of the drywall. Using only two coats will make it much harder as a key is to extend that joint very wide. The truth is that drywall mudding/taping is not that difficult. Sand all joints and nail indentations until the wall is perfectly smooth. A final thought about sanding: I once had a neighbor that begged some joint compound from me (I was the quality supervisor at a joint compound manufacturing plant for 22 years) to finish his basement, but did not ask for advice or help. Yes you will sand it, but only minimally. Both "taping" and "topping" formulations are available, but I do not recommend them for the homeowner as they are different to work with and have a different feelstick to one formulation so that you can become more familiar with it. Most good applicators need very little cleanup behind them anyway, so clean up is minimal. It's tough to add outlets, water or data lines into a masonry wall! Again, check with a straight edge. Do not, however, cover the tape with a thick layer of joint compound; just the minimum to cover the tape. You should be left with a screw sized shallow hole filled with joint compound. Let all the mud dry before applying the next coat. This type of mud tends to shrink less than all-purpose premixed mud but it begins to harden very quickly. The mud is ready for the paper tape here - note the depth on the penny. any ideas? @wilderness, Aye, there is certainly room for personal comfort and preference. When up apply it, don't let it protrude beyond the surface of the drywall or it will need sanded off before taping. This guide will give you a primer on materials as well as step-by-step instruction for how to mud drywall, so youll feel confident and not like youve got to muddle through! Like, How do you fill gaps before drywall taping? Its not unusual for the mud swath on butt joints to be 2 feet wide or wider. With the 6-inch knife, apply a thin coat of mud to both sides of an inside corner, making sure to work it all the way into the center.

Read on to learn how to hide just about any type of seam along a walleven corners where the walls meet. But do be aware that even though you did the "torch test" it is not the same as tangential lighting from a large window on a large wall. It is also considerably more expensive, so larger jobs usually use the paper type. % of people told us that this article helped them. Carry a hammer or screwdriver and set any nails or screws that you can feel the knife go over. wikiHow is a wiki, similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. Apply at least three layers: tape with compound, a block coat, and a skim coat. First, any decent quality straight knives are actually curved just slightly. Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on October 28, 2012: You're more than welcome, John. My wife would not hesitate to agree there. When the mud dries, apply one last thin coat only over the butt joints. Of course, your knife will never be perfectly clean while using it, but one of the major uses of the pan is to regularly wipe the knife, both front and back. As you continue the stroke, slowly flatten the knife towards the wall, providing more joint compound to the wall. While I was the quality super at a plant making mud for 22 years, I left that occupation a decade ago and have no contact with anyone in the field. This will prevent build up of dry mud, which eventually cause lumps, and having a clean edge also results in a smoother finish. The closest we come to that is a stud wall covered with a thin layer in plaster and even that's rare today. You will, of course, need joint compound and drywall tape.

I would not sponge the dust off at all. I've seen newbie applicators using the taping tool, however, and it doesn't look easy to learn. If the joints are horizontal you will have a much better chance of making it work but even the "flat" joints (tapered edges) are likely to be visible if they are vertical. But if dealing with ends that have no beveled indentations, its more challenging to get a smooth finish. Corner joints are those that are in a corner, such as two walls meeting or the wall and ceiling. Correctly installed drywall, ready for the mud. Even if an entire house was to be taped and finished I doubt it would be worth the effort to learn how to use the automatic tools - A skilled experienced taper can tape and apply joint compound to the drywall in a 3 bedroom house in just 2 or 3 hours by hand. Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on April 02, 2014: Not only does a tight grip give poor control but it is also very tiring. The different types of tape are paper, mesh, and preformedand all three have their pros and cons. When finished mudding fasteners, any sanding should be very minimal in order not to scuff the paper. @Wilderness I keep telling myself that, but my hands wont listen and the coats always end up thick. Corner joints to be taped with paper tape must have both sides done at once, and a corner knife is a very useful tool to have for that purpose. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. Follow the same procedure for beveled joints and corners as before. Room temperature is good for this and individual coats should dry in about a day, but colder temperatures or high humidity can increase the time to as much as a month in very unusual circumstances. The skim coat process is again the time for a final coat on nails and screws. To do a second coat for butt joints, take the 10-inch taping knife, apply two swaths of mud, approximately 8 inches wide, along both sides of the first joint coat, but not on top of the original joint. Receive free, no-commitment project estimates from licensed drywall installation and repair pros near you. No one I've ever seen likes it, though - it is very difficult to get a job that equals sanding. It doesn't really matter and seems more personal preference than anything. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. I like how these types of articles, which are obviously written by someone who gets paid to do this job, give you hints on how to do the job but try to scare you in the first paragraph or two into thinking that you can't do this job like an experienced professional. If it is, though, you can simply add a very thing coat of mud over the area and sand it smooth. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/6\/6f\/Use-Joint-Compound-Step-1.jpg\/v4-460px-Use-Joint-Compound-Step-1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/6f\/Use-Joint-Compound-Step-1.jpg\/aid1355450-v4-728px-Use-Joint-Compound-Step-1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":306,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":485,"licensing":"

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For a beginner doing only a room or so, the recommendation is that it not be thinned. Feather out the edges very well and let the mud dry. A light sanding is recommended, but may not be necessary depending on the quality of what you have accomplished so far. Premixed joint compound is just that: The mud has already been mixed with water to a smooth consistency and is ready to be applied. This article has been viewed 54,949 times. It is my hope that it will help people. I used a 6 inch knife for the second coat. Both will do the job quite well, but the fiberglass mesh is a little easier to use. Unlike paper tape that requires bedding in wet mud, self-adhesive mesh tape is applied over seams and then, when mud is applied, an adequate amount seeps through the mesh into the seam beneath. For the most part I try to write for the homeowner, not the professional (who already knows what (s)he is doing and doesn't need my help).

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