A selection that should only be made by very hard snow skiers. Does a good job. See the index regarding tuning new skis. (See Maximizing the Life of the Inserts below). Engineering. Using the Ski Sharp to maintain factory bevels is very easy to get started with when using the tool. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. We suggest that if you like the rails, get a dedicated pair of skis and don't bother tuning them, and never use your good skis on rails. If the edge is sharp and polished, the edge will shave plastic off the stick in a smooth and consistent manner, its sound will be smooth and consistent, and it will vibrate a little. You will also find out that, unless you are in soft snow, one day is all it takes to lose the sharpness under foot and, keep in mind, under foot is where you want your ski to be sharp; it is where all the skis' grip and bite and "sting" comes from. Maintain a firm grip on theSki Sharpand keep your fingers away from the sharp metal ski edges. Over-sharp and sticky edges eat muscle resiliency as efficiently as dull edges do, you tire yourself from fighting your edges.

Do so all along the edge because you need to know your starting point. The Carbide Skiver is a flat carbide blank, this makes it re-sharpenable an infinite number of times. This way you prevent the striation marks in your edges. 2. They are incredibly effective at accomplishing the entire spectrum of polish and burr removal in a single stone. Some of our customers understand it, some find it confusing. The Carbide Skiver needs more care when re-sharpening since the process is done up on its narrow edge rather than on the flat surface. Since we only take off a little at a time, this needs to be repeated from time to time, but it only takes a minute to do.

Side edge bevel is cut in using a file or Carbide Skiver in the side pocket and preferably a stone in the base pocket. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon.

The Tuning Stick solves that problem because it will always tell you the sharpness and burred condition of your edges, and you can always get consistency from ski to ski. These are the newest Ski Sharp files as of 10/2012. Consequently, you get a very rough and unstable ride. This also is the point where the Tuning Stick really performs. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness. 1. If you find you want the ski to act differently than it does with the factory settings, experiment, it is a little work, but well worth the effort, especially as you develop your own tastes. It will get amazing results with time, patience and a little bit of practice. Again, start under-foot several passes and then work outwards towards tip and tail just as you did previously. I'm a recreational skier that likes to maintain my own equipment. Finally, you have to decide your edge tuning strategy, so let's review some basics: 1. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in.

One of the problems with the Tuning Stick is that tuners can become so intrigued by it, and the way it shaves plastic, that they have a tendency to over-sharpen their skis, to over-tune their skis, playing with the stick. It is best to have nothing in the side file pocket when first cutting in baseedge bevel, you want to feel the cut, and in particular, you want to feel when the cut is finished Then you know the bevel is set. Most sharpeners do one or the other, but not both like this one. Very easy to use, quick to set up and change, pretty intuitive what to use. It is important to move the side edge inserts up and down in the pocket frequently to maximize the life of the insert and to keep using fresh stone sections to maximize its performance. But, when you find the benchmark, you own the answer.It is not an intellectual question; it can only be determined by personal experience, and your personal edge tuning experiments.You analyze your muscles as you ski. Keep in mind, when you are cutting in bevels, you are creating micro burrs, and those burrs can only be taken out with lots of polishing the edges with stones, the finer the better. We carefully set each Ski Sharp base edge file at true zero, it is the basis for the accuracy of the tool and we designed adjustability into the base file clip for that purpose. Loved it, lost it on my last trip. For years we have had the above summary about grip, slip and glide. 2. Also, if you use your skis on the rails, youruin your edges andthey can't be kept properly sharpened. Check the edge sharpness with the Tuning Stick, you shouldnow find that the edge has become sharpest under-foot, with progressively less sharpening out towards the tip and tail. The picture shows detuning at a 45 degree angle polishing the tip of the edge withour ruby ceramic polishing stone. This is a special note to racers or otherswho don't tune their own skis. Lubricants. This selection also makes for a very unforgiving ski, particularly if your boot canting is not correct. As carbide edges wear, they get rounded and shiny. To measure base edge bevel all you need is an automotive feeler gauge like the one shown, and a true bar. None of us have time to waste. You have to experiment to find what you like, and the snow conditions where you ski will influence your decisions. You can do it, but only when you know that is your objective. The outside edges are beveled and kept polished, but never sharpened. When skis have no slip it is easy to get caught in the back seat in a way that prevents the possibility of escape -- you just keep getting dragged deeper into the back seat, until POP. So what are the bevel selections for avery sharp ski? The inserts also need to be rotated in the pockets to further maximize their usefulness. }, Edge bevels are absolutely preciseand edge metal is polished, The tool is incredibly quick and easy to use, The tool requires no skill, especially when stones (we prefer)are used. This is thetruly elusive component in edge tuning. What is an example of slip? Once this is done they only need to be re-polished periodically if you use the Ski Sharp with our recommended techniques. Leave it alone beyond that. It is important to use this insert correctly when cutting in bevel! This is exactly what you want. Sharpen and de-burr with the green stones. Base edge bevel at 2 and side edge bevel at 0. With that knowledge, I Was still a little nervous and only did one pair of my skis, but they ended up perfect. You will find the ski dullest under foot, with progressive sharpness out towards the tip and tail, exactly what you don't want. It"s very time consuming switching the three stones in and out. if (typeof(prodDef) != 'undefined' && typeof(prodDef.wl_name) != 'undefined' && typeof(webAppHostname) != 'undefined' ) { 3. So, after each pass down one ski edge, adjust the stones to a fresh section and continue. The sharpening stones only work if you continuallyadjust the stones to a fresh section of stone. And, they are far more dangerous than dull edges, especially to your ACL.Where you can carve hard snow with a relaxed body, both as to confidence in your skis to grip, and confidence that your skis still have the right amount of slip, so your muscles can be relaxed and fluid, that is the benchmark, and it is easy to analyze. There is nothing new with the concept of point loading and ski tuning, but the SkiVisions approach is both unique and the most effective method of producing and controlling point loading using the Ski Sharp, Tuning Stick, and the SkiVisions tuning techniques. Easy to use and takes no room to carry with me. Keep in mind, anything over .005 (2 degrees) means that the ski has to be tipped very high on edge to get the edge to bite, something that should only be done by tuners looking for a specific effect. window.document.write(" Menú